By now you should all know what an E-Bike is, especially if you have had anything to do with mountain biking whatsoever. If not, ask a kid. But for those that still live in the dark ages, here is everything you need to know about E-Bikes…basically.

An E-Bike, also known as an electric bike is a bicycle with an electric motor that assists the rider with the physical aspect of riding – forward movement. In 2020, there are so many different brands, models, sizes, designs and capabilities of E-Bike on the market. Every major, and most minor manufacturers have entered the E-Bike game as the want for easier cycling options spread across the world at a rapid pace. In some countries, E-Bikes have surpasses regular bicycles in sales and usage. We are in the infancy of this booming market and it’s only going to get bigger.

They use rechargeable batteries that are usually mounted inside the main frame on the down tube to assist the rider during their travels with either pedal assist, some type of throttle, or both (more on that later). Depending on the size of the battery and its capacity, E-Bikes can travel up to 80km on one single charge. And should you run out of charge at any point, the pedals that are still included with your E-Bike means you can always make it home. You might sweat a little though.

Put really simply, E-Bikes are broken into two classes; Pedal Assist and Power On Demand. However, there are the bikes out there (mostly commuters) where you get both options in the one bike. Then you can break those down into different styles, which would include mountain bikes and recreational/hybrid bikes for our purposes. There are also road bikes, city bikes, and a few others that you won’t see much of here on The Dirt. But let’s get a little more in-depth around the powering systems that you can choose from

Pedal Assist

Pedal assist is a mode on an E-Bike that provides power from the motor to help you pedal easier and move faster. This feature is universally on every E-Bike out there, so it is the staple when it comes to propulsion. When you turn on pedal assist, you have the option of also choosing your level of pedal assist. This will come in the form of a small LCD display on your handlebars or will be integrated into your frame somewhere. Common displays with show numbers indicating levels of power. Others will have words like eco, normal and spot. Some will simply have lights – the more lights the more power. You can cycle through the options and choose what best suits your needs, the terrain, and battery usage. This electric Pedal Assist will feel like a magical from behind push as you pedal.

This system is basically synonymous with E-Mountain bikes and you will vary rarely see the Power On Demand system on pure dirt cycles.

Power On Demand

Power on Demand bikes use the same pedal assist system but also have the option of using a throttle instead of pedalling, much like a scooter or motorcycle. You can literally stop pedalling and use a thumb lever or similar, to turn on the electric motor and go forward. This system is almost exclusively fitted to commuter and city type bicycles, as well as the odd recreational bike that could do a bit of rail trail stuff and round town riding. You get the convenience of pedal assist and using throttle to get you where you need to go without breaking a sweat. This system is usually reserved to the hub drive motors with their on/off functions.

Another difference that you need to be aware of is where the power is delivered from. The two types that are on 99% of all E-Bikes on the market today are the Hub Drive motor and the Mid-Drive motor. Both have their pros and cons, but universally the Mid-Drive has been adopted for off-road use.

Hub Drive

Just like it says – the motor is in the hub of either the front or rear wheel. As you start pedalling, a sensor it triggered in the crank and the electric motor turns on. Pretty simple. They require little or no maintenance, and since they have been around for quite a long time (decades) they very rarely fail. They are also much cheaper than their cousins (Mid-Drive) so you will find the cheaper end E-Bikes will still have the Hub Drive system. They also almost always come with Power on Demand so if for some reason the chair brakes, you can still get home using just electric power.

However, they are usually heavier than the Mid-Drive motors and are of course un-sprung weight, meaning it could have an effect on the way the bike handles, especially off-road. Tyre changing can be tricky as you need to disconnect the wires and you are stuck with the same rim size it came with. Not much availability in the way of personalising the components.

Mid-Drive

Mid-Drive motors sit low on the bike where the frame rails connect at the bottom. It is incorporated into the normal pedal crank area and uses torque sensors to determine when you are pedalling and regulates the motor by how much force you are putting into it. The biggest advantage that the Mid-Drive has is that you still retain all your gear ratios on the bike, meaning if you come to a steep hill, you can change down and make it super easy to pedal while having the assist on – powering you up the hill with ease. It is usually smaller, and the system is usually overall lighter.

However, Mid-Drive motors can be brutal on your running gear which I think is its biggest flaw (though not big enough to choose a Hub Drive). Also, with the motor incorporated into the frame, if it does fail or you smash it on a rock it can be a quite expensive affair. The bikes with Mid-Drives are also more expensive – though that gap is shortening. And shifting under heavy power is a sure-fire way of ripping chains to pieces.

What is better you might ask?

Well for what we are going to be doing here – which is 99% off-road - the Mid-Drive motors are the go-to for sure. But you will see some Hub Motor recreational/hybrid MTB E-Bikes here from time to time.

CLICK HERE to check out some cool graphics to help you with understanding how all the above components work together.

Speeds

At the moment, you average Mid-Motor E-MTB will get you up to a speed of about 25kph – and that’s about it. The Hub Drive round-town E-Bikes, however, can get up to about 32kph – more than enough when you are tackling the morning commute. You can obviously pedal much faster if you want to, but the assist will stop and let you power on yourself. When the speed drops back under the pre-set threshold you will feel it kick in again.

Batteries

E-Bikes also come in a variety of battery sizes and power outputs. Usually the bigger/lighter and more powerful the batter the more expensive the bike will be. Higher capacity batteries will get you further and higher output ones will have better acceleration but probably die quicker. Your local E-Bike shop will be able to point you towards what kind of power you need depending on what you are wanting to do.

There is still some negative stigma for the Lycra-wearing, hardcore MTB alumni. You could even get called a cheater out on the trail. You can ride (person dependant) further and for longer on an E-Bike, opening up a whole other world of possibilities for the average Susan. E-Bikes are heavier than regular bikes so take that into account too. But the main thing is to try one out and see how if feels.

Hey – it might not be for you at all? But I’ll bet you a Happy Meal that you at least smile the first time you feel that Pedal Assist kick in and you tear off down the track.

Now you know the basics when it comes to E-Bikes.

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